San Carlos de Bariloche

So, after CONQUERING the 2000+ metre volcano in Pucon, Chile, we made our way to the depressing shipping town of Puerto Montt. The next morning we got a bus over the border to Bariloche, Argentina, a place where *gasp* I´ve been before. Here´s what went down.

Climbed cerro campanario to the wonderful lookout platform on top, giving us a panoramic view of Lago Nahuel Huapi, Bariloche and the surrounding mountains. National Geographic calls it "one of the top 10 views in the world".

Got a bus to Llao Llao, walked through a forest and hung out at the lake. Made friends with a dog we christened Chi Cho.

The next day biked a similar route, but round the 60km (apparently) Circuito Chico, with a break at the godawful (read: terrific) dinosaur "museum". Went out drinkin´ the local beer with our new Spanish friend Alfonso.

THE NEXT DAY WE DID NOTHING DONT JUDGE US WE´RE ONLY HUMAN

We went to El Bolson, a hippie town 126 km south of Bariloche. Walked around the market, walked out of town to see some nice views, twas all very quaint and pleasant.

AND FINALLY, after putting it off for several days due to bad weather, we braved Cerro Catedral. Snow meant that we couldn´t actually climb the ridge (if we could ski, then it was possible to chairlift up, ski down, walk the rest), but instead we just had an awesome walk. Got lost at the beginning because we (I) are idiots. It was very pleasant walking along the first stretch, by the time we reached the forest it had started snowing, the last half km up to Refugio Frey (in January the site of a picturesque marshy lake) was covered in thick snow and battered with icy winds. We became hysterical, mountain fever surely haven taken hold. Falling over every 3 steps, giggling like the evil Nazi from Raiders of the Lost Ark whose name escapes me currently, it was a tough haul. But we got to Frey, enjoyed a cup of tea and then made our way back. A tasty Lomito was waiting for us back in town.

DID NOTHING ONCE AGAIN AHRHHGHG
except eat ice cream and chocolate

Got a bus to Villa La Angostura, biked the Parque Nacional Bosque de Arrayanes, made friends with more dogs (christened Rama, Baghera, Mowgli and the one-legged Monalito respectively). Supped on torta brownie.

And now we must reluctantly head back into Chile. For sure, the dirty streets of Puerto Montt are not welcoming, but we must board our vessel tomorrow morn, sleeping in windowless dirty cabins for 4 days, navigating the icey waters of the south Pacific and the Patagonian fjords, arriving at Puerto Natales on Monday.

Upon leaving this fair country before I vowed to return. I kept my word, and now I must vow once again. We shall return in a few weeks. But for now, the sea is our friend, enemy and sultry lover.

Bon voyage, chicos.