So here we are in the barrio of Botafoga in Rio de Janeiro. Our hostel is just over the road from the beach, which is always nice, though when we last left you it was pouring of rain.
The rain hadnt ceased yesterday morning, so we got the metro over to the old historical centre of town, walked around in the rain and had a look in the National History Museum, which was pretty good, but suffered because it was being renovated and half the exhibits were closed.
Following this, more walking around, a trip to Bob´s Burgers and finally the Metro back to Botafoga. Too late to pick up our laundry (its still in the hands of the laundrette woman), we found a cinema and went to see FANTASTIC MR FOX (which was awesome) and followed it up by going to a late-closing book store and some late night milkshake at Bob´s Milkshakes.
This morning, Steve prodded me to wake up and declared that it wasn´t raining. At this point I didn´t care and went back to sleep, giving Steve time to eat his breakfast, have a chat with some Jehovah´s Witnesses and block up the toilet. He woke me again by throwing his unbelievably smelly towel onto my bed, forcing me to get up.
And so, in the sun for once, we walked over to our local beach, for the first time able to see the statue of Christ on the mountain behind us, then 15 minutes down the road until we reached the base of the Sugarloaf. Took the cable car up the big granite peak sticking out of the see, wandered around, saw lots of birds lizards and monkeys, and of course the brilliant panoramic views of Rio, including Copacabana...which is where we´re headed now.
Sunday, 6 December 2009
Saturday, 5 December 2009
Rio de Janeiro
Rio is one of the quintessential images of South America; the Sugarloaf, the statue of Christ looking over it all, the jungle crashing down into the sea, miles of the most famous white sandy beaches in the world, the beautiful people, the sound of Samba...
When we arrived, however, all of this was covered in rain and fog. And continues to be.
Dang.
When we arrived, however, all of this was covered in rain and fog. And continues to be.
Dang.
Thursday, 3 December 2009
Directions
so we asked for some directions to the hostel we're staying at in Rio. Here's what we got back:
From the tube station it takes buses 126/127/131/132/485/179/and it lowers to member state botafogo pria shopping, walks uma squares and average copacabana sense, crosses the street São Clemente, always straight, 40mts walks until arriving at uma street without exit (cut street) doubles to its right and would find hostel member state the 5 house of the left side. House 9
think we'll take a taxi
From the tube station it takes buses 126/127/131/132/485/179/and it lowers to member state botafogo pria shopping, walks uma squares and average copacabana sense, crosses the street São Clemente, always straight, 40mts walks until arriving at uma street without exit (cut street) doubles to its right and would find hostel member state the 5 house of the left side. House 9
think we'll take a taxi
Wednesday, 2 December 2009
Brasil - Paraguay - Brasil
Staying in Foz do Iguacu, the town on the Brasillian side of the falls, we hopped over the border once again (we dont cross borders, we hop over them) into Paraguay to spend a day in Ciudad del Este. Sordid, intimidating, tacky and commercial...this is how the Rough Guide book describes Ciudad del Este, the supermarket of South America due to its duty free status. Pretty much anything you can think of is on sale here, at low low prices!
and yes it was a bit of a dump
but we had fun at least finding strange foreign energy drinks (like Pokari Sweat all the way from the far east!)
also of note was the Itaipu hydroelectric dam, at one time the largest in the world (now second). So we had a walk around that, but unfortunately were not allowed inside the huge engine room for reasons unknown (no hablo espanol!)
Back into Brasil for our 4th border crossing in almost as many days, a big pizza covered in brasillian sausage and spicy sauce whilst we talked with the owner.
The fat cockney bastard still snored that night.
The next day a visit to the Parque das Aves, a bird zoo with huge walk-in aviaries, was really cool. Parrots, toucans, ostriches, humming birds, rheas (looked like a dinosaur and have been known to kill humans!!), as well as anacondas, turtles, caiman and other such awesomites.
We chillaxed at our hostel for the afternoon, talking to our brasillian mate about buying an Apple Macbook in Ciudad del Este. Then it was to the off. As we grabbed our bags, the fat cockney shouted:
"On the move? You suckers! You don't know whats good for ya!"
Well, sorry. But some of us have to be out of this continent in a week.
And this twat had only been seen in that chair or snoring in MY bed for the past 4 days.
I have a feeling also that his short chubby legs wouldnt be able to handle the worlds 3rd largest metropolis...SAO PAULO....
and yes it was a bit of a dump
but we had fun at least finding strange foreign energy drinks (like Pokari Sweat all the way from the far east!)
also of note was the Itaipu hydroelectric dam, at one time the largest in the world (now second). So we had a walk around that, but unfortunately were not allowed inside the huge engine room for reasons unknown (no hablo espanol!)
Back into Brasil for our 4th border crossing in almost as many days, a big pizza covered in brasillian sausage and spicy sauce whilst we talked with the owner.
The fat cockney bastard still snored that night.
The next day a visit to the Parque das Aves, a bird zoo with huge walk-in aviaries, was really cool. Parrots, toucans, ostriches, humming birds, rheas (looked like a dinosaur and have been known to kill humans!!), as well as anacondas, turtles, caiman and other such awesomites.
We chillaxed at our hostel for the afternoon, talking to our brasillian mate about buying an Apple Macbook in Ciudad del Este. Then it was to the off. As we grabbed our bags, the fat cockney shouted:
"On the move? You suckers! You don't know whats good for ya!"
Well, sorry. But some of us have to be out of this continent in a week.
And this twat had only been seen in that chair or snoring in MY bed for the past 4 days.
I have a feeling also that his short chubby legs wouldnt be able to handle the worlds 3rd largest metropolis...SAO PAULO....
Sunday, 29 November 2009
Back where we started
It´s midnight on a Sunday, thirst strikes, what ya gonna do? Head to the nearby Mcdonalds of course. After finding the main restaurant was closed, we did what any self respecting drinker of drinks would do and got in line (amongst the cars...a lot of cars) at the drive thru.
There was a snag, however. The damnable Portuguese spoken by the drive thru attendant was (to us) unintelligble. As was our attempts at spanish to him (duh) and it was all just a big mess. Here´s a transcript:
Me: Ola, 2 coca colas.
McDonalds guy: [something in Portuguese]
Me: Como?
McDonals guy: [something in Portuguese]
Me: Sim
(when in doubt I always agree to whatever Im being asked)
McDonalds guy: [something in Portuguese}
Me: Sim
mcdonalds guy: [repeats first statement]
Me: uuuuh...perdon, no voces portugues
mcdonalds guy stares blanky
as do I
mcdonalds guy: something in portuguese
mcdonalds guy gets up and leaves for 2 minutes
there are cars waiting behind us in the queue
mcdonalds guy returns
mcdonalds guy: something in portuguese
me: sim, 2 coca colas
mcdonalds guy: 8 reais por favor
me: sim, todo.
pause
me: Cuanto es?
mcdonalds guy: 8 reais por favor.
despicable
we´re back where we started over 4 and a half months ago
all for 2 cokes
There was a snag, however. The damnable Portuguese spoken by the drive thru attendant was (to us) unintelligble. As was our attempts at spanish to him (duh) and it was all just a big mess. Here´s a transcript:
Me: Ola, 2 coca colas.
McDonalds guy: [something in Portuguese]
Me: Como?
McDonals guy: [something in Portuguese]
Me: Sim
(when in doubt I always agree to whatever Im being asked)
McDonalds guy: [something in Portuguese}
Me: Sim
mcdonalds guy: [repeats first statement]
Me: uuuuh...perdon, no voces portugues
mcdonalds guy stares blanky
as do I
mcdonalds guy: something in portuguese
mcdonalds guy gets up and leaves for 2 minutes
there are cars waiting behind us in the queue
mcdonalds guy returns
mcdonalds guy: something in portuguese
me: sim, 2 coca colas
mcdonalds guy: 8 reais por favor
me: sim, todo.
pause
me: Cuanto es?
mcdonalds guy: 8 reais por favor.
despicable
we´re back where we started over 4 and a half months ago
all for 2 cokes
Iguazu Falls
From Asuncion we got the most sweltering little bus for the sweatiest 6 hours of my life to Encarnacion, close to the border with Argentina. A few days spent here was pleasant, though still very hot, and the coolest thing we saw were the huge ruins of the Jesuit mission of Trinidad. Hopping over the border to Argentina, we arrived that evening at Puerto Iguazu, home to the mighty Iguazu Falls!
So awesome they form the border of two nations, we spent a day exploring the falls from Argentina, which included getting a boat underneath one of the falls, being bitten by mosquitos, seeing a hell of a lot of butterflies and lizards, and generally having a jolly good time. The next day we hopped over the border into Brasil, the final country of our 5 month stroll around South America, and enjoyed the panoramic view of the falls from the other side of the river, as well as the biggest buffet ever.
Awesomeo.
A slight change of subject, I present to you the joy of travelling:
Returning to the dorm last night, tired and and weary, I go to get in my bed, only to discover upon closer inspection (it was dark) that there was a man in it. Not just any man, a fat sweaty cockney twat of a man, litres of sweat streaming down his sticky flab and onto my sheets and pillow. What the hell he was doing in there I have no idea. The bed was free upon our arrival, I´d put the sheets on there, my stuff was on top of it and in the locker underneath...but oh no he´d moved all that! I stood in silence for a few minutes getting progessively angrier and nearly woke him up and shouted at him but my tiredness/cowardice got the better of me and I went and got some clean sheets and found another bed some place.
BUT DIDNT SLEEP BECAUSE THIS FAT SWEATY DICK WAS SNORING.
(apologies for old photos Im a cheater)
So awesome they form the border of two nations, we spent a day exploring the falls from Argentina, which included getting a boat underneath one of the falls, being bitten by mosquitos, seeing a hell of a lot of butterflies and lizards, and generally having a jolly good time. The next day we hopped over the border into Brasil, the final country of our 5 month stroll around South America, and enjoyed the panoramic view of the falls from the other side of the river, as well as the biggest buffet ever.
Awesomeo.
A slight change of subject, I present to you the joy of travelling:
Returning to the dorm last night, tired and and weary, I go to get in my bed, only to discover upon closer inspection (it was dark) that there was a man in it. Not just any man, a fat sweaty cockney twat of a man, litres of sweat streaming down his sticky flab and onto my sheets and pillow. What the hell he was doing in there I have no idea. The bed was free upon our arrival, I´d put the sheets on there, my stuff was on top of it and in the locker underneath...but oh no he´d moved all that! I stood in silence for a few minutes getting progessively angrier and nearly woke him up and shouted at him but my tiredness/cowardice got the better of me and I went and got some clean sheets and found another bed some place.
BUT DIDNT SLEEP BECAUSE THIS FAT SWEATY DICK WAS SNORING.
(apologies for old photos Im a cheater)
Monday, 23 November 2009
Good morning Paraguay!
Q: How do you lose your body weight in sweat by just standing still?
A: PARAGUAY!
We crossed from Argentina into Paraguay at around 8:00am Sunday, and guess what? Paraguay is the hottest country ever. It was hot at 8:00am and continued to get hot and never really relented. Sure, other places have been hot (y´know, like the DESERT), but Paraguay is like sitting in an oven in the middle of the desert. Very hot indeed.
So after our night bus from Salta (not exactly a cold place itself) to the border town of Clorinda, we got a taxi to the frontier, spoke with some border officials on the Argentine side who made us play my charango otherwise they said we couldn´t cross. Passport duties had to be taken care of on the other side of the international bridge, so we duly walked across.
Upon reaching passport control at the other side, the Argentine immigration officer took a flick through our passports and declared there was a problem. Apparently we were missing an Argentine entry stamp somewhere and were illegally in the country. Now, this wasn´t the case, and we slowly went through every single stamp in our passport with him over and over ("entrada Argentina...salida Argentina...entrada Chile...salida Chile..." and still he found fault. Couldn´t work out whether the problem was that one of Steve´s Argentine entry stamps was not in order, or if in going to Ushuaia we had entered and left Argentina several times in one day, coupled with the fact that a week later we went to Uruguay for only one day, thus confusing the immigration officer. Whatever the case, he wasn´t having any of it and just kept shaking his head. Eventually, he typed some stuff into his computer (I´m supposing they actually have a database of all this to keep tabs on folk), and came back with some fresh exit stamps for our passports.
Yeah, take that.
So we bargained with a taxi driver and managed to half the price of a taxi from the border 40km to Asuncion, crossing the Rio Paraguay on the way. Sweating a lot.
Asuncion is a very strange city indeed. Very small, it doesn´t feel like the capital of a nation. As we arrived to one of the main plazas in the centre of town, everything was completely deserted. Exploring later yielded few people as well. But the small and compact centre is pretty nice, with mostly victorian buildings and a small presidential palace, a small national monument (the Panteon de los Heroes), and small plazas (Plaza Uruguaya, Plaza de los Heroes and Plaza del Comidas).
So far, people have been very friendly here. Tourism really hasn´t taken off in Paraguay at all, our hotel (no hostels or backpacker accommodation) is empty, and people are eager to talk to you. So it´s nice.
And, seeing as Paraguay is a kind of forgotten corner of South America, here´s some things I learned:
Upon independence from Buenos Aires and Spain, one of Paraguay´s first dictators was a paranoid man named Dr Francia. Fearing assasination, he declared that all buildings must be under a certain height so that his guards could spot would-be assassins. This means other than a few modern sky scrapers, all the older buildings in Asuncion are remarkably low.
In the 1860s, the dictator Francisco Lopez, believing himself to be the Napoleon of South America, felt threatened and declared war on Brasil. Now this is a silly move considering Paraguay´s tiny size compared to Brasil, but what happened next was even worse. Argentina wouldn´t let Paraguay move its troops through the Misiones province to get to Brasil, so Lopez declared war on them as well. And, Uruguay, apparently wanting to get in on the laugh allied Brasil and Argentina as well. So take a look at a map if you´re not familiar, and try working out the sense of Paraguay fighting with Brasil, Argentina and Uruguay.
Almost half the population was killed in this war (the war of the triple alliance), and that figure includes children as young as 12, who were enlisted when reserves ran low.
Construction of the presidential palace was even finished by child labourers, because there were simply no adults.
In the 1930s Paraguay also warred with Bolivia over the inhospitable wilderness of The Chaco, which divides the two countries.
has a fairly fascinating history, does paraguay.
and it´s also very hot. about 45 degrees.
A: PARAGUAY!
We crossed from Argentina into Paraguay at around 8:00am Sunday, and guess what? Paraguay is the hottest country ever. It was hot at 8:00am and continued to get hot and never really relented. Sure, other places have been hot (y´know, like the DESERT), but Paraguay is like sitting in an oven in the middle of the desert. Very hot indeed.
So after our night bus from Salta (not exactly a cold place itself) to the border town of Clorinda, we got a taxi to the frontier, spoke with some border officials on the Argentine side who made us play my charango otherwise they said we couldn´t cross. Passport duties had to be taken care of on the other side of the international bridge, so we duly walked across.
Upon reaching passport control at the other side, the Argentine immigration officer took a flick through our passports and declared there was a problem. Apparently we were missing an Argentine entry stamp somewhere and were illegally in the country. Now, this wasn´t the case, and we slowly went through every single stamp in our passport with him over and over ("entrada Argentina...salida Argentina...entrada Chile...salida Chile..." and still he found fault. Couldn´t work out whether the problem was that one of Steve´s Argentine entry stamps was not in order, or if in going to Ushuaia we had entered and left Argentina several times in one day, coupled with the fact that a week later we went to Uruguay for only one day, thus confusing the immigration officer. Whatever the case, he wasn´t having any of it and just kept shaking his head. Eventually, he typed some stuff into his computer (I´m supposing they actually have a database of all this to keep tabs on folk), and came back with some fresh exit stamps for our passports.
Yeah, take that.
So we bargained with a taxi driver and managed to half the price of a taxi from the border 40km to Asuncion, crossing the Rio Paraguay on the way. Sweating a lot.
Asuncion is a very strange city indeed. Very small, it doesn´t feel like the capital of a nation. As we arrived to one of the main plazas in the centre of town, everything was completely deserted. Exploring later yielded few people as well. But the small and compact centre is pretty nice, with mostly victorian buildings and a small presidential palace, a small national monument (the Panteon de los Heroes), and small plazas (Plaza Uruguaya, Plaza de los Heroes and Plaza del Comidas).
So far, people have been very friendly here. Tourism really hasn´t taken off in Paraguay at all, our hotel (no hostels or backpacker accommodation) is empty, and people are eager to talk to you. So it´s nice.
And, seeing as Paraguay is a kind of forgotten corner of South America, here´s some things I learned:
Upon independence from Buenos Aires and Spain, one of Paraguay´s first dictators was a paranoid man named Dr Francia. Fearing assasination, he declared that all buildings must be under a certain height so that his guards could spot would-be assassins. This means other than a few modern sky scrapers, all the older buildings in Asuncion are remarkably low.
In the 1860s, the dictator Francisco Lopez, believing himself to be the Napoleon of South America, felt threatened and declared war on Brasil. Now this is a silly move considering Paraguay´s tiny size compared to Brasil, but what happened next was even worse. Argentina wouldn´t let Paraguay move its troops through the Misiones province to get to Brasil, so Lopez declared war on them as well. And, Uruguay, apparently wanting to get in on the laugh allied Brasil and Argentina as well. So take a look at a map if you´re not familiar, and try working out the sense of Paraguay fighting with Brasil, Argentina and Uruguay.
Almost half the population was killed in this war (the war of the triple alliance), and that figure includes children as young as 12, who were enlisted when reserves ran low.
Construction of the presidential palace was even finished by child labourers, because there were simply no adults.
In the 1930s Paraguay also warred with Bolivia over the inhospitable wilderness of The Chaco, which divides the two countries.
has a fairly fascinating history, does paraguay.
and it´s also very hot. about 45 degrees.
Friday, 20 November 2009
Salta
We arrived in Salta at around 8.00 Thursday morning. Upon leaving the air conditioned bus terminal, one thing was certain: Salta is very very hot.
Salta´s main attraction is the natural beauty of the surrounding area - desert, cacti, salt flats, multi coloured mountains and the like. We´d already been within 200 miles of the area 2 months or so ago, in Bolivia and Chile, and had seen all these kinds of things before, so we decided to be a bit different.
Taking the teleferico up the mountain overlooking the city, we found it to be packed with school kids on a trip. They took it upon themselves to be very friendly and ask us to translate things from Spanish into English. Yes, that´s right, I can successfully communicate on (almost) the same level with a Spanish speaking child.
More psychic exploration of the city with needles. And chorizo and mash for dinner. And an improvised arctic roll.
For today? Horse riding around the area with some gauchos, as well as a massive asado and some mate at their estancia (ranch), AND an epic England vs Argentina game of table football (lucky the little plastic players don´t have hands, right?).
And tomorrow?
Tomorrow we go to Paraguay.
Salta´s main attraction is the natural beauty of the surrounding area - desert, cacti, salt flats, multi coloured mountains and the like. We´d already been within 200 miles of the area 2 months or so ago, in Bolivia and Chile, and had seen all these kinds of things before, so we decided to be a bit different.
Taking the teleferico up the mountain overlooking the city, we found it to be packed with school kids on a trip. They took it upon themselves to be very friendly and ask us to translate things from Spanish into English. Yes, that´s right, I can successfully communicate on (almost) the same level with a Spanish speaking child.
More psychic exploration of the city with needles. And chorizo and mash for dinner. And an improvised arctic roll.
For today? Horse riding around the area with some gauchos, as well as a massive asado and some mate at their estancia (ranch), AND an epic England vs Argentina game of table football (lucky the little plastic players don´t have hands, right?).
And tomorrow?
Tomorrow we go to Paraguay.
Wednesday, 18 November 2009
No skydiving for us
The weather was bad this morning as well. Hooray for getting money back and not jumping out of airborne vehicles.
Tuesday, 17 November 2009
Cordoba
It´s very hot here. We got up very early this morning to go sky diving, arrived at the airfield, had the training, but were then told it was too windy and we couldn´t do it. Ah well, we´ll jump out of a plane at 2500 metres tomorrow morning instead.
Friday, 13 November 2009
Gracias por todo
Claudia, Francis and Melody,
If you´re reading this, we´d just like to say thank you very much once again for what has been a fantastic time in Buenos Aires, in no small part due to your amazing hospitality and generosity. We both feel that we´re so lucky and are incredibly grateful for everything you have done for us. Thanks also to Gustavo for a wonderful asado and ice cream in Palermo.
It was great to see you all again.
Francis, see you at Heathrow airport in a month. Everyone else, I´m sure it won´t be too long.
THANK YOU!
Gareth and Steve
(2 de los hermanos en las capas)
If you´re reading this, we´d just like to say thank you very much once again for what has been a fantastic time in Buenos Aires, in no small part due to your amazing hospitality and generosity. We both feel that we´re so lucky and are incredibly grateful for everything you have done for us. Thanks also to Gustavo for a wonderful asado and ice cream in Palermo.
It was great to see you all again.
Francis, see you at Heathrow airport in a month. Everyone else, I´m sure it won´t be too long.
THANK YOU!
Gareth and Steve
(2 de los hermanos en las capas)
Saturday, 7 November 2009
feliz cumpleaños adam
first: happy birthday to adam who is 23 now (!!!)
second: today we saw whales and penguins and elephant seals.
second: today we saw whales and penguins and elephant seals.
Friday, 6 November 2009
Good Air
Well, I just spent an hour and a half trying to up some photos for you all to see, but this computer is having none of it. I´m afraid my words alone will have to do.
When we last left you (save for a teasing photo of us at a Buenos Aires halloween party) we were shivering in Ushuaia, the southernmost city of the world (I´m going to keep hammering that point down). After a few days hanging out there, exploring the old prison, walking round Tierra del Fuego National Park and getting a boat into the Beagle Channel, we caught (and nearly missed) a flight to Buenos Aires. Upon disembarking, there was one thing on both our minds - "it´s bloody hot!"
So for the first time since northern chile, away with the fleeces, hats and scarves. It was then up to me to remember our way across the city, get on the correct train to La Lucila, (no problem), where we were warmly welcomed by Francis, Claudia and Melody. Despite the heat, it was great to be back.
Our week of this:
exploring the city, going to an Andy Warhol exhibition at MALBA, having an asado (Steve proclaimed it was "the greatest steak I´ve ever had") jammin´, kayaking in the Rio de la Plata, 2 for 1 Burger Kings, supermassive ice creams, a boat trip over to Uruguay, the aforementioned halloween party, and of course, having a great time hanging with great friends and not being a complete tourist for a change.
So since we have an extra 2 weeks added, we decided to go south (as if we haven´t been doing enough of that since, hmm, let´s see, July) for 18 hours to Puerto Madryn on Argentina´s atlantic coast. The nearby Peninsula Valdes is a hotspot for wildlife, the waters contain thousands of Southern Right Whales, that are nursing their young at this time of year, so can be seen in the shallows, metres away from the beach. Add to that seal, sea lion and elephant seal colonies, as well as the largest penguin colony in South America (over a million penguins), hopefully I can upload some photos soon!
When we last left you (save for a teasing photo of us at a Buenos Aires halloween party) we were shivering in Ushuaia, the southernmost city of the world (I´m going to keep hammering that point down). After a few days hanging out there, exploring the old prison, walking round Tierra del Fuego National Park and getting a boat into the Beagle Channel, we caught (and nearly missed) a flight to Buenos Aires. Upon disembarking, there was one thing on both our minds - "it´s bloody hot!"
So for the first time since northern chile, away with the fleeces, hats and scarves. It was then up to me to remember our way across the city, get on the correct train to La Lucila, (no problem), where we were warmly welcomed by Francis, Claudia and Melody. Despite the heat, it was great to be back.
Our week of this:
exploring the city, going to an Andy Warhol exhibition at MALBA, having an asado (Steve proclaimed it was "the greatest steak I´ve ever had") jammin´, kayaking in the Rio de la Plata, 2 for 1 Burger Kings, supermassive ice creams, a boat trip over to Uruguay, the aforementioned halloween party, and of course, having a great time hanging with great friends and not being a complete tourist for a change.
So since we have an extra 2 weeks added, we decided to go south (as if we haven´t been doing enough of that since, hmm, let´s see, July) for 18 hours to Puerto Madryn on Argentina´s atlantic coast. The nearby Peninsula Valdes is a hotspot for wildlife, the waters contain thousands of Southern Right Whales, that are nursing their young at this time of year, so can be seen in the shallows, metres away from the beach. Add to that seal, sea lion and elephant seal colonies, as well as the largest penguin colony in South America (over a million penguins), hopefully I can upload some photos soon!
Sunday, 1 November 2009
Sunday, 25 October 2009
Ushuaia
That's great, it starts with an earthquake,
birds and snakes, an aeroplane
Lenny Bruce is not afraid
Eye of a hurricane, listen to yourself churn
World serves its own needs, regardless of your own needs
Feed it up a knock,
speed, grunt no, strength no.
Ladder structure clatter with fear of height, down height
Wire in a fire, represent the seven games in a government for hire and a combat site
Left her, wasn't coming in a hurry with the furies breathing down your neck.
Team by team reporters baffled, trump, tethered crop.
Look at that low plane! Fine then.
Uh oh, overflow, population,
common group, but it'll do.
Save yourself, serve yourself. World serves its own needs, listen to your heart bleed.
Tell me with the rapture and the reverent in the right - right. You vitriolic, patriotic, slam, fight, bright light, feeling pretty psyched.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine.
Six o'clock - TV hour. Don't get caught in foreign tower. Slash and burn,
return, listen to yourself churn.
Lock him in uniform and book burning, blood letting. Every motive escalate. Automotive incinerate.
Light a candle, light a motive. Step down, step down. Watch a heel crush, crush.
Uh oh, this means no fear - cavalier. Renegade and steer clear!
A tournament,
a tournament,
a tournament of lies.
Offer me solutions, offer me alternatives
and I decline.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine.
The other night I tripped a nice continental drift divide. Mount St. Edelite.
LEONARD BERNSTEIN
Leonid Breshnev, Lenny Bruce and Lester Bangs.
Birthday party, cheesecake, jelly bean, boom!
You symbiotic, patriotic,
slam, but neck,
Right?
Right.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine...fine...
(It's time I had some time alone)
birds and snakes, an aeroplane
Lenny Bruce is not afraid
Eye of a hurricane, listen to yourself churn
World serves its own needs, regardless of your own needs
Feed it up a knock,
speed, grunt no, strength no.
Ladder structure clatter with fear of height, down height
Wire in a fire, represent the seven games in a government for hire and a combat site
Left her, wasn't coming in a hurry with the furies breathing down your neck.
Team by team reporters baffled, trump, tethered crop.
Look at that low plane! Fine then.
Uh oh, overflow, population,
common group, but it'll do.
Save yourself, serve yourself. World serves its own needs, listen to your heart bleed.
Tell me with the rapture and the reverent in the right - right. You vitriolic, patriotic, slam, fight, bright light, feeling pretty psyched.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine.
Six o'clock - TV hour. Don't get caught in foreign tower. Slash and burn,
return, listen to yourself churn.
Lock him in uniform and book burning, blood letting. Every motive escalate. Automotive incinerate.
Light a candle, light a motive. Step down, step down. Watch a heel crush, crush.
Uh oh, this means no fear - cavalier. Renegade and steer clear!
A tournament,
a tournament,
a tournament of lies.
Offer me solutions, offer me alternatives
and I decline.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine.
The other night I tripped a nice continental drift divide. Mount St. Edelite.
LEONARD BERNSTEIN
Leonid Breshnev, Lenny Bruce and Lester Bangs.
Birthday party, cheesecake, jelly bean, boom!
You symbiotic, patriotic,
slam, but neck,
Right?
Right.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it.
It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine...fine...
(It's time I had some time alone)
No Paine No Gain
Having settled down in Puerto Natales, we got out a map and with the help of Carlos, the brilliant owner of the house we we staying in, planned a 2 day jaunt around the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, despite its southernly location one of Chile´s biggest attractions and a veritable mecca for hikers and mountain climbers. Due to time constraints we couldn´t take in the ´W´, a 4 to 5 day trail, or El Circuito Grande, a 10 day circuit encompassing most of the park, but instead worked out a sort of greatest hits of the place. For the first day, we utilised bus transfers within the park to see various lakes, waterfalls, always backlit by the stunning Paine Massif with the imposing Los Torres in the centre. The highlight of this was an hour and a half walk taking in the huge Lago Grey, with Glaciar Grey in the distance. Walking from the forest onto the beach our eyes were drawn to one thing.
Ice bergs.
There were ice bergs.
At the beach.
Ice bergs at the beach.
ICE BERGS AT THE BEACH.
You can understand our excitement, I´m sure. Despite the unbelievable awesomeness of this surreal place, it was a whole new level of freezing, and posing for photos in front of the lake, one was prone to be splashed by water being blown by the incredibly strong winds.
Walking through Torres del Paine, by the way, I experienced winds stronger than I´ve ever felt before. Twas a little brisk to say the least.
Following this we hopped on a bus back to the park entrance, then walked for an hour and a half until we arrived at the campsite Los Torres. Here we set up our tent, made a cup of tea and cooked some pasta. Then we went to sleep and woke up quite cold.
Starting the next morning, we hiked the trail up to the Torres base. This wasn´t too challenging, had some great views, and of course experienced every season in one day. It started off really pleasant, before raining, snowing, becoming really windy, raining some more...
Unfortunately, upon arriving at the base of Los Torres (the scary looking granite towers you´ll see if you google Torres del Paine), it was far to foggy to see them. Add to this the heavy snow, and óther than throw some snowballs around we didnt stick around long.
And so it was, back to the camp, pack up our tent, back to Puerto Natales for a victory pizza and then an early bus to Argentina the next day.
Ice bergs.
There were ice bergs.
At the beach.
Ice bergs at the beach.
ICE BERGS AT THE BEACH.
You can understand our excitement, I´m sure. Despite the unbelievable awesomeness of this surreal place, it was a whole new level of freezing, and posing for photos in front of the lake, one was prone to be splashed by water being blown by the incredibly strong winds.
Walking through Torres del Paine, by the way, I experienced winds stronger than I´ve ever felt before. Twas a little brisk to say the least.
Following this we hopped on a bus back to the park entrance, then walked for an hour and a half until we arrived at the campsite Los Torres. Here we set up our tent, made a cup of tea and cooked some pasta. Then we went to sleep and woke up quite cold.
Starting the next morning, we hiked the trail up to the Torres base. This wasn´t too challenging, had some great views, and of course experienced every season in one day. It started off really pleasant, before raining, snowing, becoming really windy, raining some more...
Unfortunately, upon arriving at the base of Los Torres (the scary looking granite towers you´ll see if you google Torres del Paine), it was far to foggy to see them. Add to this the heavy snow, and óther than throw some snowballs around we didnt stick around long.
And so it was, back to the camp, pack up our tent, back to Puerto Natales for a victory pizza and then an early bus to Argentina the next day.
Monday, 19 October 2009
The Long Way Down
We awoke Friday morning, had breakfast in the little guesthouse we were staying at, packed up some things and then out of nowhere the little old lady who owned it announced we had to leave. I told her we have to go to the bank, we don´t have enough money to pay you at the moment, to which she simply replied "no", clearly not realising her 2 options: let us go to the bank or be shortchanged.
Eventually she devised a plan that involved us going to the bank, returning with the 2500 chilean pesos we owed her and giving it to her neighbour, as she wouldn´t be in. Fine. So we do just that, dropping our bags off at the ferry port. To our dismay the Navimag people tell us that due to short space we´ve been upgraded to a private cabin with a window and a wash basin. Aw no! So we won´t be in the engine room afterall.
We get some food, mate (thats mah-tay), and head back to her place with our ducats. She is not in, so we give it to her neighbour, and make our way to the port. We board the ship (late...have to walk through the hold with all the trucks and animals and cargo, the rest of the passengers were treated to an elevator ride), find our cabin, and we´re off.
See the map below for our route (number 1 to number 9).
We sail through lakes past the island of Chiloe, and on the second day sailed into the open Pacific. It was a tad choppy and there was much vomiting all around. Let´s just say the wash basin in our room came in useful afterall.
At one point we enjoy tremendous miscommunication, crazy hand gestures and the heavy consumption of Pisco with some Chilean fellows who speak no English. One of them looks like the murderer from Zodiac. Another plays accordion.
On the third night, as the ship is navigating the maze of fjords and tiny islands, we experience really heavy rain, which is fun. Followed at 6am the next morning, as we are going through the Wide Narrow, by lots of snow.
We arrive at 9am in Puerto Natales, the most south Steve and I have ever been (so far). We disembark, wave goodbye to our floating home (and curse its stinking baños), and make our way into town. Needless to say, it´s quite cold and windy here.
Tomorrow we´re going camping in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine.
Eventually she devised a plan that involved us going to the bank, returning with the 2500 chilean pesos we owed her and giving it to her neighbour, as she wouldn´t be in. Fine. So we do just that, dropping our bags off at the ferry port. To our dismay the Navimag people tell us that due to short space we´ve been upgraded to a private cabin with a window and a wash basin. Aw no! So we won´t be in the engine room afterall.
We get some food, mate (thats mah-tay), and head back to her place with our ducats. She is not in, so we give it to her neighbour, and make our way to the port. We board the ship (late...have to walk through the hold with all the trucks and animals and cargo, the rest of the passengers were treated to an elevator ride), find our cabin, and we´re off.
See the map below for our route (number 1 to number 9).
We sail through lakes past the island of Chiloe, and on the second day sailed into the open Pacific. It was a tad choppy and there was much vomiting all around. Let´s just say the wash basin in our room came in useful afterall.
At one point we enjoy tremendous miscommunication, crazy hand gestures and the heavy consumption of Pisco with some Chilean fellows who speak no English. One of them looks like the murderer from Zodiac. Another plays accordion.
On the third night, as the ship is navigating the maze of fjords and tiny islands, we experience really heavy rain, which is fun. Followed at 6am the next morning, as we are going through the Wide Narrow, by lots of snow.
We arrive at 9am in Puerto Natales, the most south Steve and I have ever been (so far). We disembark, wave goodbye to our floating home (and curse its stinking baños), and make our way into town. Needless to say, it´s quite cold and windy here.
Tomorrow we´re going camping in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine.
Friday, 16 October 2009
Sky of blue, sea of green, in our yellow...
We´ve just been informed that they´ve upgraded us from lowly engine room shared cabin to a private twin room WITH A PORTHOLE!!!!
FOR NO EXTRA COST.
FUNK YEAH.
also expedia suck
FOR NO EXTRA COST.
FUNK YEAH.
also expedia suck
Thursday, 15 October 2009
San Carlos de Bariloche
So, after CONQUERING the 2000+ metre volcano in Pucon, Chile, we made our way to the depressing shipping town of Puerto Montt. The next morning we got a bus over the border to Bariloche, Argentina, a place where *gasp* I´ve been before. Here´s what went down.
Climbed cerro campanario to the wonderful lookout platform on top, giving us a panoramic view of Lago Nahuel Huapi, Bariloche and the surrounding mountains. National Geographic calls it "one of the top 10 views in the world".
Got a bus to Llao Llao, walked through a forest and hung out at the lake. Made friends with a dog we christened Chi Cho.
The next day biked a similar route, but round the 60km (apparently) Circuito Chico, with a break at the godawful (read: terrific) dinosaur "museum". Went out drinkin´ the local beer with our new Spanish friend Alfonso.
THE NEXT DAY WE DID NOTHING DONT JUDGE US WE´RE ONLY HUMAN
We went to El Bolson, a hippie town 126 km south of Bariloche. Walked around the market, walked out of town to see some nice views, twas all very quaint and pleasant.
AND FINALLY, after putting it off for several days due to bad weather, we braved Cerro Catedral. Snow meant that we couldn´t actually climb the ridge (if we could ski, then it was possible to chairlift up, ski down, walk the rest), but instead we just had an awesome walk. Got lost at the beginning because we (I) are idiots. It was very pleasant walking along the first stretch, by the time we reached the forest it had started snowing, the last half km up to Refugio Frey (in January the site of a picturesque marshy lake) was covered in thick snow and battered with icy winds. We became hysterical, mountain fever surely haven taken hold. Falling over every 3 steps, giggling like the evil Nazi from Raiders of the Lost Ark whose name escapes me currently, it was a tough haul. But we got to Frey, enjoyed a cup of tea and then made our way back. A tasty Lomito was waiting for us back in town.
DID NOTHING ONCE AGAIN AHRHHGHG
except eat ice cream and chocolate
Got a bus to Villa La Angostura, biked the Parque Nacional Bosque de Arrayanes, made friends with more dogs (christened Rama, Baghera, Mowgli and the one-legged Monalito respectively). Supped on torta brownie.
And now we must reluctantly head back into Chile. For sure, the dirty streets of Puerto Montt are not welcoming, but we must board our vessel tomorrow morn, sleeping in windowless dirty cabins for 4 days, navigating the icey waters of the south Pacific and the Patagonian fjords, arriving at Puerto Natales on Monday.
Upon leaving this fair country before I vowed to return. I kept my word, and now I must vow once again. We shall return in a few weeks. But for now, the sea is our friend, enemy and sultry lover.
Bon voyage, chicos.
Climbed cerro campanario to the wonderful lookout platform on top, giving us a panoramic view of Lago Nahuel Huapi, Bariloche and the surrounding mountains. National Geographic calls it "one of the top 10 views in the world".
Got a bus to Llao Llao, walked through a forest and hung out at the lake. Made friends with a dog we christened Chi Cho.
The next day biked a similar route, but round the 60km (apparently) Circuito Chico, with a break at the godawful (read: terrific) dinosaur "museum". Went out drinkin´ the local beer with our new Spanish friend Alfonso.
THE NEXT DAY WE DID NOTHING DONT JUDGE US WE´RE ONLY HUMAN
We went to El Bolson, a hippie town 126 km south of Bariloche. Walked around the market, walked out of town to see some nice views, twas all very quaint and pleasant.
AND FINALLY, after putting it off for several days due to bad weather, we braved Cerro Catedral. Snow meant that we couldn´t actually climb the ridge (if we could ski, then it was possible to chairlift up, ski down, walk the rest), but instead we just had an awesome walk. Got lost at the beginning because we (I) are idiots. It was very pleasant walking along the first stretch, by the time we reached the forest it had started snowing, the last half km up to Refugio Frey (in January the site of a picturesque marshy lake) was covered in thick snow and battered with icy winds. We became hysterical, mountain fever surely haven taken hold. Falling over every 3 steps, giggling like the evil Nazi from Raiders of the Lost Ark whose name escapes me currently, it was a tough haul. But we got to Frey, enjoyed a cup of tea and then made our way back. A tasty Lomito was waiting for us back in town.
DID NOTHING ONCE AGAIN AHRHHGHG
except eat ice cream and chocolate
Got a bus to Villa La Angostura, biked the Parque Nacional Bosque de Arrayanes, made friends with more dogs (christened Rama, Baghera, Mowgli and the one-legged Monalito respectively). Supped on torta brownie.
And now we must reluctantly head back into Chile. For sure, the dirty streets of Puerto Montt are not welcoming, but we must board our vessel tomorrow morn, sleeping in windowless dirty cabins for 4 days, navigating the icey waters of the south Pacific and the Patagonian fjords, arriving at Puerto Natales on Monday.
Upon leaving this fair country before I vowed to return. I kept my word, and now I must vow once again. We shall return in a few weeks. But for now, the sea is our friend, enemy and sultry lover.
Bon voyage, chicos.
Tuesday, 6 October 2009
Tuesday, 29 September 2009
Greetings from Valparaiso
So here we are in the old port town of Valparaiso, Chile. This, folks, is a wonderful city. It combines the gritty youth of Berlin with the old charm of Paris, is small enough that you can walk around the centre, has lots of hills with labyrinthian alleys, a ton of awesome graffiti, bins made from hand-decorated old oil drums, and, oh yes, it's by the sea.
Tomorrow evening we'll reluctantly head an hour and a half in land, back to Santiago, before continuing our journey south to Patagonia. There are, of course, volcanoes to climb.
(ps. we went paragliding. twas fun)
Tomorrow evening we'll reluctantly head an hour and a half in land, back to Santiago, before continuing our journey south to Patagonia. There are, of course, volcanoes to climb.
(ps. we went paragliding. twas fun)
Friday, 25 September 2009
Un cambio de direccion, y el discubrimiento de la oceano (otra vez)
After sandboarding, and making the girl at the hostel really angry for getting sand everywhere in the bathroom, we left San Pedro, heading north for a change, arriving in the seaside town of Iquique at 5.00 this morning. Slept on the sofas of the hostel, drank some Pap, got abuse from a cafe owner and it is extremely likely that we will be hitting the beach shortly.
I hate sand.
I hate sand.
Thursday, 24 September 2009
Kilometraje arido
Following our 3 day sojourn across Bolivia's Salar de Uyuni, we hopped onto an extremely crowded little bus and crossed the border into northern Chile. The change was felt immediately: paved roads, complete with nice cars and signposts, well-kept buildings, and unfortunately, much higher prices. We were searched extensively at customs (I guess that's what happens when you go from somewhere that produces as much cocaine as Bolivia into somewhere more developed like Chile), and arrived at the little oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama. I can honestly say we have yet to find somewhere as pleasant as San Pedro on our travels. However, it's a little bit stranded in the middle of the Atacama, the world's most inhospitable and arid desert. The scorching temperatures and zero levels of humidity mean that absolutely nothing will grow out here. So of course, Steve and I hired some bikes to check out the nothing, and rode across the desert highway for a bit, happening on the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon), an area of astounding moonscapes. We explored a little bit, finding a cave and crawling through it, climbing on rocks and getting lost, before getting far too hot and tired (this is a desert afterall) and scrambling back up the sand dunes and onto the highway for a downhill return to San Pedro.
This afternoon: sandboarding on a 300m high sand dune.
This afternoon: sandboarding on a 300m high sand dune.
Wednesday, 23 September 2009
More foodstuffs
(Note: Click to view whole photos)
A portrait of two fools
We swam in this at 7 in the morning
Volcano land
Our ride
Riding across the Atacama desert, Chile
A portrait of two fools
We swam in this at 7 in the morning
Volcano land
Our ride
Riding across the Atacama desert, Chile
Photo update
Note: click to view whole photos
70 metres down, Potosi silver mines, Bolivia
Train graveyard, Uyuni, Bolivia
HOLDING LIT DYNAMITE, Potosi, Bolivia
One man and his Charango, Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
Our ride across the Salar, Bolivia
70 metres down, Potosi silver mines, Bolivia
Train graveyard, Uyuni, Bolivia
HOLDING LIT DYNAMITE, Potosi, Bolivia
One man and his Charango, Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
Our ride across the Salar, Bolivia
Saturday, 19 September 2009
Feliz cumple Francis!
big shout out to Guini.
There would be photos, but the internet here is SO SLOW, it barely even loaded our blog. I think uploading photos is being a bit too optimistic.
So, I shall have to paint you a picture with my words.
After the mines yesterday, we wandered around Potosi. It was an alright city, though I may not be the best authority on such a thing. Everyone weve met has said how horrible Lima and Quito and La Paz were, but I liked them. The other travellers weve met complain too much. It annoys me a bit. Its ALL exciting.
Ended up in a batshitinsane coffee shop called El Farol, the sign on the door said open, but it was locked. We rang a bell and a little old lady scuttled out and let us in. Nothing could have prepared us for the decor; cardboard knights on the wall, crowns for lampshades, the biggest spoons in existence adorning the various surfaces, it was all weird beyond belief, as if we were stuck in some time capsule. We had some coffee, I asked if she had any desserts, she said she had orange juice. No thanks. About 20 minutes later the old lady declares she has a "chocolate liquor". Sure. She disappears downstairs and returns some time later with some kind of alcoholic chocolate pudding. Weird as this place is, the pudding was delicious. So we finish up and get the bill, sign her guestbook (20 years worth of visitors comments), and then she and a new arrival proceed to tell us that the decoration is very typical of colonial Potosi.
Now, either my spanish isnt as good as it should be and I misunderstood, or they were having us on, because there is no way that anyone anywhere at any point in history has decorated anything like this.
Except of course this off-her-gourd-but-totally-lovely old lady.
(reminded me of Beryl a little bit!)
So we went back to the hostel and watched Peep Show and The Lost World and Friends (hooray for cable tv!). To accompany this visual feast I went out and bought the biggest cheese rolls known to man. Today we got a bus (bags on the bus) 6 hours across the desert (with people standing, or should I say leaning on me, the whole way) to the small town of Uyuni.
Tomorrow morning we embark on a 3 day tour of the Salar de Uyuni (the worlds largest salt flats), before hopping over the border to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.
Tonight we will feast at Minuteman Pizza. I am so excited about this, you have no idea. Its gonna be up there with the Amazon and Machu Picchu, fo sho. Serioso, Minuteman pizza today, and San Pedro in a few days. If only Mike Watt was here.
look at all the pretty pictures i can make trying to find the "apostrophe" key:
,☺♂☺☻♥☻A♦§←ÐÙ┼
There would be photos, but the internet here is SO SLOW, it barely even loaded our blog. I think uploading photos is being a bit too optimistic.
So, I shall have to paint you a picture with my words.
After the mines yesterday, we wandered around Potosi. It was an alright city, though I may not be the best authority on such a thing. Everyone weve met has said how horrible Lima and Quito and La Paz were, but I liked them. The other travellers weve met complain too much. It annoys me a bit. Its ALL exciting.
Ended up in a batshitinsane coffee shop called El Farol, the sign on the door said open, but it was locked. We rang a bell and a little old lady scuttled out and let us in. Nothing could have prepared us for the decor; cardboard knights on the wall, crowns for lampshades, the biggest spoons in existence adorning the various surfaces, it was all weird beyond belief, as if we were stuck in some time capsule. We had some coffee, I asked if she had any desserts, she said she had orange juice. No thanks. About 20 minutes later the old lady declares she has a "chocolate liquor". Sure. She disappears downstairs and returns some time later with some kind of alcoholic chocolate pudding. Weird as this place is, the pudding was delicious. So we finish up and get the bill, sign her guestbook (20 years worth of visitors comments), and then she and a new arrival proceed to tell us that the decoration is very typical of colonial Potosi.
Now, either my spanish isnt as good as it should be and I misunderstood, or they were having us on, because there is no way that anyone anywhere at any point in history has decorated anything like this.
Except of course this off-her-gourd-but-totally-lovely old lady.
(reminded me of Beryl a little bit!)
So we went back to the hostel and watched Peep Show and The Lost World and Friends (hooray for cable tv!). To accompany this visual feast I went out and bought the biggest cheese rolls known to man. Today we got a bus (bags on the bus) 6 hours across the desert (with people standing, or should I say leaning on me, the whole way) to the small town of Uyuni.
Tomorrow morning we embark on a 3 day tour of the Salar de Uyuni (the worlds largest salt flats), before hopping over the border to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.
Tonight we will feast at Minuteman Pizza. I am so excited about this, you have no idea. Its gonna be up there with the Amazon and Machu Picchu, fo sho. Serioso, Minuteman pizza today, and San Pedro in a few days. If only Mike Watt was here.
look at all the pretty pictures i can make trying to find the "apostrophe" key:
,☺♂☺☻♥☻A♦§←ÐÙ┼
Friday, 18 September 2009
Pavement reform!
It has just come to my attention that the band Pavement are reforming for some shows in 2010. This is, like, amazing. Seriously. Pavement. ;D
In other news, Steve and I are currently in the town of Potosi. Once home to the biggest supply of silver anywhere in the world ever, this has now dried up, yet mines in the Cerro Rico continue. We took a trip down the mines this morning to have a look at what´s going down. Here´s what we observed.
Miners drink before going down...this drink is 96% alcohol. It would have been rude of us to refuse to try some...
Dynamite is very cheap to buy. Just under 2 english pounds for a stick and a fuse. It would have been foolish of us not to buy some...
It´s quite hard to breathe in the mines. It´s quite hard to move in the mines. It´s quite hard to do anything there. 70 metres down on the lowest level, we met and spoke with a miner, then had a go at doing his job. Would not like to do that for 9 hours a day for 6 bolivianos (roughly 60p) per kilo extracted. No sirree bob.
Climbing out of the mine (on ones stomach) is even worse than going down.
This hellishness was compensated by blowing up the aforementioned dynamite.
Twas fun.
Photos when I find a place that will let me upload them.
also...PAVEMENT REFORM.
fffffffffffffffffffffffffffff
SM, Spiral Stairs, Bob Nastanovich, Mark Ibold and Steve West.
Pick out some brazillian nuts for your engagement, check that expiration date man! It´s later than you think.
Heaven is a truck, it got stuck on the breeze.
DON´T WORRY! WE´RE IN NO HURRY! SCHOOL´S OUT. WHAT DID YOU EXPECT?
I wanna range life, if i could settle down, if i could settle down, then i would settle down.
WE ARE UNDERUUUUUSED
What about the voice of Geddy Lee? How did it get so high? I wonder if he speaks like an ordinary guy (I know him, and he does), then you´re my fact checkin´cuz...
I don´t remember lying, I don´t remember lying, I don´t remember a word but I DONT CARE; DONT CARE did you see the drummers hair?
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
In other news, Steve and I are currently in the town of Potosi. Once home to the biggest supply of silver anywhere in the world ever, this has now dried up, yet mines in the Cerro Rico continue. We took a trip down the mines this morning to have a look at what´s going down. Here´s what we observed.
Miners drink before going down...this drink is 96% alcohol. It would have been rude of us to refuse to try some...
Dynamite is very cheap to buy. Just under 2 english pounds for a stick and a fuse. It would have been foolish of us not to buy some...
It´s quite hard to breathe in the mines. It´s quite hard to move in the mines. It´s quite hard to do anything there. 70 metres down on the lowest level, we met and spoke with a miner, then had a go at doing his job. Would not like to do that for 9 hours a day for 6 bolivianos (roughly 60p) per kilo extracted. No sirree bob.
Climbing out of the mine (on ones stomach) is even worse than going down.
This hellishness was compensated by blowing up the aforementioned dynamite.
Twas fun.
Photos when I find a place that will let me upload them.
also...PAVEMENT REFORM.
fffffffffffffffffffffffffffff
SM, Spiral Stairs, Bob Nastanovich, Mark Ibold and Steve West.
Pick out some brazillian nuts for your engagement, check that expiration date man! It´s later than you think.
Heaven is a truck, it got stuck on the breeze.
DON´T WORRY! WE´RE IN NO HURRY! SCHOOL´S OUT. WHAT DID YOU EXPECT?
I wanna range life, if i could settle down, if i could settle down, then i would settle down.
WE ARE UNDERUUUUUSED
What about the voice of Geddy Lee? How did it get so high? I wonder if he speaks like an ordinary guy (I know him, and he does), then you´re my fact checkin´cuz...
I don´t remember lying, I don´t remember lying, I don´t remember a word but I DONT CARE; DONT CARE did you see the drummers hair?
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Tuesday, 15 September 2009
Touche Huayna Potosi, touche...
(Note: click to see whole pictures)
Day 1: Arrive at base camp, then climbing across the glacier at the foot of the mountain
Day 2: Leave at 9.00am, climb up to the high camp at 5100 metres with our big backpacks, filled with our new snow boots, crampons and icepicks. Arrive at the camp around midday, play uno.
Day 3: Wake up at 1.00am, leave at 2.00am, and climb up to the summit of Huayna Potosi (6088 metres), mostly in the dark. Come back down again. It will surely be the highest we reach on this trip (and unless we go climbing Everest or something (8800 metres if you were wondering) maybe ever).
Day 1: Arrive at base camp, then climbing across the glacier at the foot of the mountain
Day 2: Leave at 9.00am, climb up to the high camp at 5100 metres with our big backpacks, filled with our new snow boots, crampons and icepicks. Arrive at the camp around midday, play uno.
Day 3: Wake up at 1.00am, leave at 2.00am, and climb up to the summit of Huayna Potosi (6088 metres), mostly in the dark. Come back down again. It will surely be the highest we reach on this trip (and unless we go climbing Everest or something (8800 metres if you were wondering) maybe ever).
Thursday, 10 September 2009
Tuesday, 8 September 2009
Monday, 7 September 2009
Unboliviable!
A 3 course meal in Bolivia: 2 pounds fifty
A night in a Bolivian hostel: 2 pounds fifty
A good time in Bolivia: Priceless (well...five pounds)
------------------------------------------
So Peru came and went, we crossed the border with no problems and arrived in Copacabana (not that one) on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Visited the birthplace of the Incas, the Isla del Sol, before getting a bus (and an unexpected boat) to La Paz.
So La Paz seems to be a rather crazy place. The drive through the outskirts was fairly terrifying (plenty of "dont break down here" moments), unpaved roads, fires in the street, rubbish piled metres high in the middle of the street, general destruction, that sort of thing. Then of course theres the city itself, witches markets, llama foetuses for sale, masked shoeshines (masks because they are ashamed of their job), the hairdressers district where I get harrassed to shave my beard every 2 steps (never! - "why?" I reply with a smile "its not ok?", to which I get a stern response), Chorita Wrestling (a woman got set on fire!!!), buses held together with safety pins racing past spitting fumes in our face, meeting with our german pals randomly in the street having last seen them in Cusco weeks ago, and of course, a llama tikka massala at the worlds highest curry hut (allegedly).
Next up: climbing 6000 metres to Huayana Potosi, and biking down the worlds most dangerous road. If we survive either, that is.
A night in a Bolivian hostel: 2 pounds fifty
A good time in Bolivia: Priceless (well...five pounds)
------------------------------------------
So Peru came and went, we crossed the border with no problems and arrived in Copacabana (not that one) on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Visited the birthplace of the Incas, the Isla del Sol, before getting a bus (and an unexpected boat) to La Paz.
So La Paz seems to be a rather crazy place. The drive through the outskirts was fairly terrifying (plenty of "dont break down here" moments), unpaved roads, fires in the street, rubbish piled metres high in the middle of the street, general destruction, that sort of thing. Then of course theres the city itself, witches markets, llama foetuses for sale, masked shoeshines (masks because they are ashamed of their job), the hairdressers district where I get harrassed to shave my beard every 2 steps (never! - "why?" I reply with a smile "its not ok?", to which I get a stern response), Chorita Wrestling (a woman got set on fire!!!), buses held together with safety pins racing past spitting fumes in our face, meeting with our german pals randomly in the street having last seen them in Cusco weeks ago, and of course, a llama tikka massala at the worlds highest curry hut (allegedly).
Next up: climbing 6000 metres to Huayana Potosi, and biking down the worlds most dangerous road. If we survive either, that is.
Wednesday, 2 September 2009
Big Fat South American Blog
If there´s anyone at all that bothers to read this, then I apologise for not updating it or making it more entertaining or whatever, and most of all, for the complete lack of photos (excepting one, of course). Assuming that there are people reading this, here´s what´s been going down.
The last time I wrote something that wasn´t a Ricky Gervais Show fan fiction, we´d just arrived in Cusco. We spent a couple of days there before setting off on a 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. The trek itself was lots of fun, walking through the Lares valley in the Andes. We had to climb 3 mountain passes, the highest we got was 4600 metres, I indulged in some high altitude dancing (not a good idea), and camped at 4300 metres. It got very cold at night, and I went to the toilet (read: hole in the ground), couldn´t find it, slipped over on the ice, and thought I´d never find my way back to the tent.
Upon finishing the bulk of the trek in a town called Ollytaytambo, the rest of the group collapsed in a cafe or bar. This kind of laziness doesn´t appeal to Steve and I, so we went and climbed the hundreds of steps at the Inca temple that overlooks the town. Then we climbed the mountain that overlooks the Inca temple. Following this we chowed on guinea pig (disappointing) and drank coca tea by the gallon. Caught the train to Agua Caliente (remember trains?) and slept.
4am next morning we caught the bus up to Machu Picchu. I´ll let the picture below do the talking for now, but after strolling round it, Steve and I found it nessecary to climb another mountain that overlooks the complex. Not the smartest move at midday in subtropical conditions, but even though it was about 10 times harder than the 4 day trek, it was worth it when we got to the top.
Back to Cusco on train, went to see a football match (Cusco v Liverpool from Uruguay). Spent a week or so in Cusco, did some white water rafting, made some friends, more Incan temples, explored markets, and Steve did the highest bungee jump in the Americas (4th highest in the world). I got up there and chickened out like the spineless gimp I am.
From Cusco we got an overnight bus to Nazca, arriving at 7.30am. By 9.00am we were on a 5 seater plane flying over the desert, admiring the mysterious Nazca lines below. We then crashed out at a hostel, ate suspect hamburgers, generally killing time before our second nightbus in a row.
Arrived in Arequipa early the next morning and found a cool little hostel. We were in a small dorm with a middle aged american an (we affectionately called him "Baldy") who liked to get naked in front of us (4 times in one day, seriously wtf). Walked down, camped in, swam in, then up Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world. Lots of fun. Got seriously screwed over with bus tickets by a tourist operator named David. I´m gonna suckerpunch him if I ever see him again. Made me feel like a complete tourist (which, of course I am, but I don´t like to be reminded of it).
HORRIBLE bus ride from Arequipa to Puno - the hottest, slowest bus in the world (which upon starting off had no problem playing a game of chicken with oncoming taxis and oil tankers, but once on the highway slowed to a painful 4km an hour). Had possibly the best pizza I´ve ever had in Puno, and the next morning (another early start...) got a boat to the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca. These islands are manmade from reeds, have been there for about 1200 years or so. Steve and I chatted with the islands´leader, and had a look round his house. Then a 3 hour boat trip to Amantani Island, where we stayed the night with a family. Not native Spanish speakers, they spoke the Incan language of Qechua, although Ismael the father and one of the sons spoke some Spanish. We played a game of football with some of the locals (at about 4000m this was particularly knackering) and, er, went to a fiesta at night (the less said about our traditional costumes the better). The best part? Watching the youngest sons reaction as I moved my ears up and down, and teaching him how to play thumb wars.
So despite all this cool stuff, at the moment I´m holed up in the back room of a ladies sportswear shop which is also doubling as an internet cafe, feeling completely under the weather, and not looking forward to the early morning start tomorrow.
One good thing will come of it however: by 10.00am we´ll have crossed into Bolivia...
ps. social faux pas of the trip so far...
Gareth to 6 year old Uros Island girl (in spanish): Where is your bed?
The last time I wrote something that wasn´t a Ricky Gervais Show fan fiction, we´d just arrived in Cusco. We spent a couple of days there before setting off on a 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. The trek itself was lots of fun, walking through the Lares valley in the Andes. We had to climb 3 mountain passes, the highest we got was 4600 metres, I indulged in some high altitude dancing (not a good idea), and camped at 4300 metres. It got very cold at night, and I went to the toilet (read: hole in the ground), couldn´t find it, slipped over on the ice, and thought I´d never find my way back to the tent.
Upon finishing the bulk of the trek in a town called Ollytaytambo, the rest of the group collapsed in a cafe or bar. This kind of laziness doesn´t appeal to Steve and I, so we went and climbed the hundreds of steps at the Inca temple that overlooks the town. Then we climbed the mountain that overlooks the Inca temple. Following this we chowed on guinea pig (disappointing) and drank coca tea by the gallon. Caught the train to Agua Caliente (remember trains?) and slept.
4am next morning we caught the bus up to Machu Picchu. I´ll let the picture below do the talking for now, but after strolling round it, Steve and I found it nessecary to climb another mountain that overlooks the complex. Not the smartest move at midday in subtropical conditions, but even though it was about 10 times harder than the 4 day trek, it was worth it when we got to the top.
Back to Cusco on train, went to see a football match (Cusco v Liverpool from Uruguay). Spent a week or so in Cusco, did some white water rafting, made some friends, more Incan temples, explored markets, and Steve did the highest bungee jump in the Americas (4th highest in the world). I got up there and chickened out like the spineless gimp I am.
From Cusco we got an overnight bus to Nazca, arriving at 7.30am. By 9.00am we were on a 5 seater plane flying over the desert, admiring the mysterious Nazca lines below. We then crashed out at a hostel, ate suspect hamburgers, generally killing time before our second nightbus in a row.
Arrived in Arequipa early the next morning and found a cool little hostel. We were in a small dorm with a middle aged american an (we affectionately called him "Baldy") who liked to get naked in front of us (4 times in one day, seriously wtf). Walked down, camped in, swam in, then up Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world. Lots of fun. Got seriously screwed over with bus tickets by a tourist operator named David. I´m gonna suckerpunch him if I ever see him again. Made me feel like a complete tourist (which, of course I am, but I don´t like to be reminded of it).
HORRIBLE bus ride from Arequipa to Puno - the hottest, slowest bus in the world (which upon starting off had no problem playing a game of chicken with oncoming taxis and oil tankers, but once on the highway slowed to a painful 4km an hour). Had possibly the best pizza I´ve ever had in Puno, and the next morning (another early start...) got a boat to the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca. These islands are manmade from reeds, have been there for about 1200 years or so. Steve and I chatted with the islands´leader, and had a look round his house. Then a 3 hour boat trip to Amantani Island, where we stayed the night with a family. Not native Spanish speakers, they spoke the Incan language of Qechua, although Ismael the father and one of the sons spoke some Spanish. We played a game of football with some of the locals (at about 4000m this was particularly knackering) and, er, went to a fiesta at night (the less said about our traditional costumes the better). The best part? Watching the youngest sons reaction as I moved my ears up and down, and teaching him how to play thumb wars.
So despite all this cool stuff, at the moment I´m holed up in the back room of a ladies sportswear shop which is also doubling as an internet cafe, feeling completely under the weather, and not looking forward to the early morning start tomorrow.
One good thing will come of it however: by 10.00am we´ll have crossed into Bolivia...
ps. social faux pas of the trip so far...
Gareth to 6 year old Uros Island girl (in spanish): Where is your bed?
Sunday, 23 August 2009
CHIMPANZEE THAT MONKEY NEWS (part 2)
Pilkington; Right, ok. So, we went on this trek right. To...Machu Picchu. 4 days. In a tent.
Gervais; Right...
Merchant; And how do you feel about staying in tents Karl? I know you had an uncle who made you sleep in a rubber dinghy before, how does this compare?
Pilkington; .....er.....not that bothered really. I´d prefer to sleep in a house, but, like, when you´re asleep you´re not awake are you? So you don´t know where you´re sleeping.
Gervais; [HIGH PITCHED CACKLING LAUGHTER] When you´re asleep you don´t know where you are ahahahahahaha!
Merchant; so...you´re in a tent at night. you´re fine with that. what other potential problems did camping present to you Karl?
Pilkington; uuuuuuuuuuum....well....the outdoors.
Gervais; WHAT DO YOU MEAN?
Pilkington; y´know like being outside.
Gervais; what the fuck do you mean you little round headed fool?
Pilkington; there´s rocks and stuff knockin´about. thats about it. just not that bothered really. rather stay at home.
Gervais; you´d rather stay at home? you went to Peru but you´d rather stay at home? they have one of the most diverse geographical landscapes of any country...the andes, the amazon, desert, a huge incredible ecosystem. what a twat.
Merchant; did you see any insects? listeners will of course know that Karl is particularly interested with insects.
Pilkington; uuuuuum....there was a dead moth in me shoe.
Gervais; ahahahahaha so you did a lot of hiking then!
Pilkington; well....but...like...I felt really sad. Because it´d obviously gone in there when I was like....not wearing them...then I put them on and killed it. So this hiking is dangerous.
Gervais; DANGEROUS! AHAHAHAHAHA!
Merchant; maybe it died of a heart attack, Rick.
Gervais; maybe it was the altitude.
Pilkington; but it is really high isnt it?
Gervais; it was a joke. get on with the fucking monkey news.
Pilkington; alright, so, the reason we did this one, this company, was because, like i say, not that bothered about the outdoors, and like, when you´re outdoors, you don´t get to eat food.
Gervais; Wait, wait, wait, what do you mean?
Pilkington; Like, there´s no electric is there? So you can´t get a good pie, or just pop down the shops for a twix or summit.
Gervais; oh my god what an idiot...
Merchant; no no let him finish rick, what´s your point Karl?
Pilkington; So this one we did, this hike, offered really good food. It had this good reputation for having the best food in the mountains. So me and Susanne were like, alright...
Gervais; Right.
Merchant; and how was the food, karl?
Pilkington; it was alright. Lots of fruit. Lots of bananas.
Gervais; ahahahahaha
Merchant: oooh ok. I see.
Gervais: hahahaha
Merchant: But it´s not a monkey thing surely? Because he´d have eaten them all.
Pilkington: and we had this banana on fire too.
Gervais: what do you mean a banana on fire?
Pilkington: this banana came out and it was on fire but it wasn´t burning. I don´t really understand.
Merchant: You mean a flambe?
Pilkington: maybe i dunno, it was just an unburnt banana on fire.
Gervais: What a little tit.
Pilkington: But like, this really good banana food kept coming out. And everyone in the group was like "can we see the chef and congratulate him?" and the guide was like "nah, best not bother him, he´s alright."
Merchant: Oh of course.
Pilkington: And we were like "but all this fruit´s so good, can we leave him a tip?" And they said "nah leave him. He´s shy. The little guy doesn´t like the attention."
Merchant; But again Karl, this couldn´t possibly be a monkey thing because you know that there are no monkeys in the Andes.
Pilkington: Yeah but, we didnt see him anyway. The whole time. Except when we went to bed, a little way away near the food tent, there was this hairy fella jumping around on some rocks.
Gervais; NO! NO! NO! You´re making it up! How did this monkey cook? How? You´re talking shit!
Pilkington: So anyway, we were on the bus on the way back from Machu Picchu, and this other couple said that early in the morning, before breakfast, they wanted some water.
Merchant: Right.
Pilkington;: So they´d gone to the food tent...
Gervais: Bullshit.
Pilkington: And there was a little monkey wearing a chefs hat knockin´about in there making scrambled egg.
Gervais: AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Merchant: Again, Karl, you understand that a monkey could not cook scrambled eggs?
Gervais: And even if it could...you´re fussy about what you eat anyway...how would YOU feel about eating eggs prepared by a monkey? Which apparently has evolved to grow apposable thumbs.
Pilkington: They said it wore gloves and a hair net.
Gervais: AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. What, a full body hair net. You´re full of shit Karl! Shut up! Its bollocks!
Gervais; Right...
Merchant; And how do you feel about staying in tents Karl? I know you had an uncle who made you sleep in a rubber dinghy before, how does this compare?
Pilkington; .....er.....not that bothered really. I´d prefer to sleep in a house, but, like, when you´re asleep you´re not awake are you? So you don´t know where you´re sleeping.
Gervais; [HIGH PITCHED CACKLING LAUGHTER] When you´re asleep you don´t know where you are ahahahahahaha!
Merchant; so...you´re in a tent at night. you´re fine with that. what other potential problems did camping present to you Karl?
Pilkington; uuuuuuuuuuum....well....the outdoors.
Gervais; WHAT DO YOU MEAN?
Pilkington; y´know like being outside.
Gervais; what the fuck do you mean you little round headed fool?
Pilkington; there´s rocks and stuff knockin´about. thats about it. just not that bothered really. rather stay at home.
Gervais; you´d rather stay at home? you went to Peru but you´d rather stay at home? they have one of the most diverse geographical landscapes of any country...the andes, the amazon, desert, a huge incredible ecosystem. what a twat.
Merchant; did you see any insects? listeners will of course know that Karl is particularly interested with insects.
Pilkington; uuuuuum....there was a dead moth in me shoe.
Gervais; ahahahahaha so you did a lot of hiking then!
Pilkington; well....but...like...I felt really sad. Because it´d obviously gone in there when I was like....not wearing them...then I put them on and killed it. So this hiking is dangerous.
Gervais; DANGEROUS! AHAHAHAHAHA!
Merchant; maybe it died of a heart attack, Rick.
Gervais; maybe it was the altitude.
Pilkington; but it is really high isnt it?
Gervais; it was a joke. get on with the fucking monkey news.
Pilkington; alright, so, the reason we did this one, this company, was because, like i say, not that bothered about the outdoors, and like, when you´re outdoors, you don´t get to eat food.
Gervais; Wait, wait, wait, what do you mean?
Pilkington; Like, there´s no electric is there? So you can´t get a good pie, or just pop down the shops for a twix or summit.
Gervais; oh my god what an idiot...
Merchant; no no let him finish rick, what´s your point Karl?
Pilkington; So this one we did, this hike, offered really good food. It had this good reputation for having the best food in the mountains. So me and Susanne were like, alright...
Gervais; Right.
Merchant; and how was the food, karl?
Pilkington; it was alright. Lots of fruit. Lots of bananas.
Gervais; ahahahahaha
Merchant: oooh ok. I see.
Gervais: hahahaha
Merchant: But it´s not a monkey thing surely? Because he´d have eaten them all.
Pilkington: and we had this banana on fire too.
Gervais: what do you mean a banana on fire?
Pilkington: this banana came out and it was on fire but it wasn´t burning. I don´t really understand.
Merchant: You mean a flambe?
Pilkington: maybe i dunno, it was just an unburnt banana on fire.
Gervais: What a little tit.
Pilkington: But like, this really good banana food kept coming out. And everyone in the group was like "can we see the chef and congratulate him?" and the guide was like "nah, best not bother him, he´s alright."
Merchant: Oh of course.
Pilkington: And we were like "but all this fruit´s so good, can we leave him a tip?" And they said "nah leave him. He´s shy. The little guy doesn´t like the attention."
Merchant; But again Karl, this couldn´t possibly be a monkey thing because you know that there are no monkeys in the Andes.
Pilkington: Yeah but, we didnt see him anyway. The whole time. Except when we went to bed, a little way away near the food tent, there was this hairy fella jumping around on some rocks.
Gervais; NO! NO! NO! You´re making it up! How did this monkey cook? How? You´re talking shit!
Pilkington: So anyway, we were on the bus on the way back from Machu Picchu, and this other couple said that early in the morning, before breakfast, they wanted some water.
Merchant: Right.
Pilkington;: So they´d gone to the food tent...
Gervais: Bullshit.
Pilkington: And there was a little monkey wearing a chefs hat knockin´about in there making scrambled egg.
Gervais: AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Merchant: Again, Karl, you understand that a monkey could not cook scrambled eggs?
Gervais: And even if it could...you´re fussy about what you eat anyway...how would YOU feel about eating eggs prepared by a monkey? Which apparently has evolved to grow apposable thumbs.
Pilkington: They said it wore gloves and a hair net.
Gervais: AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. What, a full body hair net. You´re full of shit Karl! Shut up! Its bollocks!
Friday, 21 August 2009
Sunday, 16 August 2009
Crossing the border and other stories
Following the theft of Steve´s beloved camera, we notified the bus conductor, whose response was the most apathetic shrug I´ve ever witnessed, though not at all surprising. The people at the bus company office were no help either. Upon our arrival at the small village of Vilcabamba in the south of Ecuador, we made our way to the local police station just to get a report for the insurance, anything in writing with a signature or stamp on it, but alas, twas not to be.
So, went for a 5 hour walk to a waterfall, saw some cows and some snakes and some birds of prey. Steve fell in the river. After Mexican food 3 days running, we tried "the best Italian food in Ecuador". Didn´t quite live up to expectations. Cost all of about 3 english pounds though.
Head off again on Monday morning, getting a small bus (bags on the roof!) to Loja where we got on a long distance bus that took us to Macara, over the border into Peru and left us in Piura. The border crossing was simple, though walking across the international bridge yielded more mosquito bites than the amazon rainforest did, and most importantly, our bus didn´t crash (I hear this is a fairly common thing in Peru). Arrived in Piura at around 10.00pm, got a "taxi" (in Peru anyone can stick a sign in their window and be a bus or taxi) who took us to a dark corner where a man mysteriously appeared to change our dollaros into soles, got a teensy bit ripped off but oh well, then took us to another bus station (more of a shed) where we waited in the hope that the 11.00pm bus to Lima actually existed. We were joined by an English guy from Coventry (who knew the Leicester Noodle Bar!) who bailed us out big time by lending us some cash for the bus ticket (in being ripped off by the money changer, we were now just a little bit short). The bus that turned up was a big thing, like the buses in Argentina, well worth the 20 quid for 16 hours of travel. Sleeep.
Woke up to see the Pacific Ocean out my window. Arrived in Lima, shared a taxi with Stefan from Germany, and spent a few nights in the Stop and Drop Hostel. Went to the beach. Didn´t go surfing or paragliding (will do that somewhere else). Did win lots of toy army men at the amusement arcades playing a basketball game. I didn´t think people could drive crazier than they do in Argentina, but Lima wins, hands down. Isn´t it great when a mundane activity such as a taxi ride can be really fun?
Got a 24 hour bus to Cusco. Had a briefing for our Machu Picchu trek. We´re at a pretty high altitude here, I get out of breath walking up the stairs. Climbing up a mountain to 4300 metres might be a bit tricky...
So, went for a 5 hour walk to a waterfall, saw some cows and some snakes and some birds of prey. Steve fell in the river. After Mexican food 3 days running, we tried "the best Italian food in Ecuador". Didn´t quite live up to expectations. Cost all of about 3 english pounds though.
Head off again on Monday morning, getting a small bus (bags on the roof!) to Loja where we got on a long distance bus that took us to Macara, over the border into Peru and left us in Piura. The border crossing was simple, though walking across the international bridge yielded more mosquito bites than the amazon rainforest did, and most importantly, our bus didn´t crash (I hear this is a fairly common thing in Peru). Arrived in Piura at around 10.00pm, got a "taxi" (in Peru anyone can stick a sign in their window and be a bus or taxi) who took us to a dark corner where a man mysteriously appeared to change our dollaros into soles, got a teensy bit ripped off but oh well, then took us to another bus station (more of a shed) where we waited in the hope that the 11.00pm bus to Lima actually existed. We were joined by an English guy from Coventry (who knew the Leicester Noodle Bar!) who bailed us out big time by lending us some cash for the bus ticket (in being ripped off by the money changer, we were now just a little bit short). The bus that turned up was a big thing, like the buses in Argentina, well worth the 20 quid for 16 hours of travel. Sleeep.
Woke up to see the Pacific Ocean out my window. Arrived in Lima, shared a taxi with Stefan from Germany, and spent a few nights in the Stop and Drop Hostel. Went to the beach. Didn´t go surfing or paragliding (will do that somewhere else). Did win lots of toy army men at the amusement arcades playing a basketball game. I didn´t think people could drive crazier than they do in Argentina, but Lima wins, hands down. Isn´t it great when a mundane activity such as a taxi ride can be really fun?
Got a 24 hour bus to Cusco. Had a briefing for our Machu Picchu trek. We´re at a pretty high altitude here, I get out of breath walking up the stairs. Climbing up a mountain to 4300 metres might be a bit tricky...
Sunday, 9 August 2009
photographique
NO PHOTOS BECAUSE STEVE´S CAMERA (and travel neck pillow) HAVE BEEN STOLEN!
that´s right, somewhere some ecuadorian thief is lounging around with a neck pillow and taking photos.
THE HUNT IS ON.
that´s right, somewhere some ecuadorian thief is lounging around with a neck pillow and taking photos.
THE HUNT IS ON.
Friday, 7 August 2009
How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Ecuador
"you hear me? I´m not afraid anymore!" - Kevin McCallister (from the movie Home Alon (RIP John Hughes and Culkins career))
several rides in the back of pickup trucks at breakneck speed
Steve jumped down a waterfall (yes, THAT steve)
navigating the dangerous territory of bus stations
partying in Quito
canopying in Mindo
thwarting malaria at every corner
high altitude making stairs climbing increasingly difficult
the smallest bathroom door in the world
chocolate fondue
the night bus (as one lonely planet reader put it: "dont go on the night buses...thats when the bad guys do their bad things")
street kids proposing to steve they shine his shoes.
steve to street kids: "no. they´re suede."
and now the biggest challenge of all. The Ecuador-Peru border.
gulp
("you guys had enough, or are you thirsty for more?")
several rides in the back of pickup trucks at breakneck speed
Steve jumped down a waterfall (yes, THAT steve)
navigating the dangerous territory of bus stations
partying in Quito
canopying in Mindo
thwarting malaria at every corner
high altitude making stairs climbing increasingly difficult
the smallest bathroom door in the world
chocolate fondue
the night bus (as one lonely planet reader put it: "dont go on the night buses...thats when the bad guys do their bad things")
street kids proposing to steve they shine his shoes.
steve to street kids: "no. they´re suede."
and now the biggest challenge of all. The Ecuador-Peru border.
gulp
("you guys had enough, or are you thirsty for more?")
Saturday, 1 August 2009
Red Breasted Nun Bird
THE AMAZON RAINFOREST
So we got the night bus to Lago Agrio (y´know, the guerilla-hiding, drug smuggling border town that the Foreign Office strongly recommend against going to...they´re right, it´s a bit of a dump), waited there in the rain outside the uber-classy (not) Hotel D´Mario, making friends with Hungarians, Australians and Danish alike. A 2 and a half hour bus ride later and we arrive at the dock, get into our motor powered canoes and travel upriver 40 clicks (about 2 and a half hours again) to the lodge, deep in the Amazon Rainforest. What awaited us was a week of river swimming (for some of us anyway...not steve) canoe trips (sore arms), visits to the Shaman, night walks in the jungle, 3 hour treks wading through jungle swamps, fishing for pirahnas, sunset watching, bird watching, monkey frolicking, night caiman hunting, anaconda hunting, ant eating FUN.
Anacondas seen: 3
Pirahnas caught: Steve - 1 (red pirahna the most feared and critically respected of all the fish)
Monkeys seen; lots
caiman wrestled: more than you could shake a stick at
mosquito bites: gareth - 26 everyone else - slightly less
steve´s nosquitos trousers dont work
we saw other snakes too like the amazon tree boa, the snail eater and two types of sloth and macaws and toucans and PINK RIVER DOLPHINS UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL and an ELECTRIC EEL and a caiman RIGHT UNDER OUR SLEEPING HUT, several tarantulas above beds (christened Billy Bob), rice and soup EVERY FUCKING DAY GLORIOUS I SAY GLORIOUS, awesome guides, Luis: the Latino Dom Joly and Juan: eyes like a demon.
Friends made: lots
Rainstorms: one, got soaked
hammocks relaxed in: numerous
percentage of sadness upon leaving: 100
so we´re back in Quito. Heading to a place called Mindo tomorrow for rafting, biking and most important of all cloud forest canopying. Then the great journey south begins as we wave goodbye to master kitchener the first and make the jump from Ecuador to Peru.
"City hands mister Hooper. City hands. You´ve been counting money all your life."
CHAU!
So we got the night bus to Lago Agrio (y´know, the guerilla-hiding, drug smuggling border town that the Foreign Office strongly recommend against going to...they´re right, it´s a bit of a dump), waited there in the rain outside the uber-classy (not) Hotel D´Mario, making friends with Hungarians, Australians and Danish alike. A 2 and a half hour bus ride later and we arrive at the dock, get into our motor powered canoes and travel upriver 40 clicks (about 2 and a half hours again) to the lodge, deep in the Amazon Rainforest. What awaited us was a week of river swimming (for some of us anyway...not steve) canoe trips (sore arms), visits to the Shaman, night walks in the jungle, 3 hour treks wading through jungle swamps, fishing for pirahnas, sunset watching, bird watching, monkey frolicking, night caiman hunting, anaconda hunting, ant eating FUN.
Anacondas seen: 3
Pirahnas caught: Steve - 1 (red pirahna the most feared and critically respected of all the fish)
Monkeys seen; lots
caiman wrestled: more than you could shake a stick at
mosquito bites: gareth - 26 everyone else - slightly less
steve´s nosquitos trousers dont work
we saw other snakes too like the amazon tree boa, the snail eater and two types of sloth and macaws and toucans and PINK RIVER DOLPHINS UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL and an ELECTRIC EEL and a caiman RIGHT UNDER OUR SLEEPING HUT, several tarantulas above beds (christened Billy Bob), rice and soup EVERY FUCKING DAY GLORIOUS I SAY GLORIOUS, awesome guides, Luis: the Latino Dom Joly and Juan: eyes like a demon.
Friends made: lots
Rainstorms: one, got soaked
hammocks relaxed in: numerous
percentage of sadness upon leaving: 100
so we´re back in Quito. Heading to a place called Mindo tomorrow for rafting, biking and most important of all cloud forest canopying. Then the great journey south begins as we wave goodbye to master kitchener the first and make the jump from Ecuador to Peru.
"City hands mister Hooper. City hands. You´ve been counting money all your life."
CHAU!
Thursday, 23 July 2009
quito
so we just arrived in quito, the capital of Ecuador. Here's the plan
ECUADOR
Quito, then up north to spend 5 days in the Amazon Rainforest
more of ecuador, not sure what yet
PERU
Lima
Cusco
Machu Picchu
Lake Titicaca
BOLIVIA
CHILE
ARGENTINA
Patagonia, Ushuaia and of course Bueno Aires and La Lucila
URUGUAY
maybe PARAGUAY
BRASIL
leaving Rio on 25th november
not much of a plan really
ECUADOR
Quito, then up north to spend 5 days in the Amazon Rainforest
more of ecuador, not sure what yet
PERU
Lima
Cusco
Machu Picchu
Lake Titicaca
BOLIVIA
CHILE
ARGENTINA
Patagonia, Ushuaia and of course Bueno Aires and La Lucila
URUGUAY
maybe PARAGUAY
BRASIL
leaving Rio on 25th november
not much of a plan really
Tuesday, 21 July 2009
omfg
sitting in steve's room blogging and sorting out last minute details
AAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH
had a curry
deciding which books to take
more interesting blogs will come, I promise
AAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH
had a curry
deciding which books to take
more interesting blogs will come, I promise
lots of love
also: anaconda eats man
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